Day 5: Dunquin to Ballydavid (18.5km)

In summary …

We had another stellar walk with magnificent views today - mostly along the Dingle Peninsula headland, with regular forays onto the beach. The first stretch of beach walking was magnificent, as were the aspects from the other expanses of sand, but the wind! Goodness! If it had been at our backs we would have sailed along like Daleks on steroids. But as the wind blew continually into our faces (or at best pushed us sideways) every step was equivalent to two (at least).

Tonight we are staying in Ballydavid, a picturesque town facing the coast. We’ve had an excellent shower in our excellent room, and our host has provided us with coffee, tea, rhubarb crumble and sticky date pudding with caramel sauce, so after a long day of walking we are almost ready to venture (gingerly with aching limbs and sore feet) into town for another pub meal.

The Good

Fabulous scenery at every turn. Also, the friendly Irish men and women. In the same way a group of people in Australia are often referred to as ‘guys,’ it seem groups of people in Irish pubs can be called ‘lads,’ which I quite like. A collective noun for people (not genders).

The Bad

The wind presented challenges, but it must be said that the skies were blue, the clouds were high and the weather (when we were out of the wind) was mild. And perhaps we were lucky, as our accomodation host said ‘pffft pfft pfft’ when we mentioned the wind, and she claimed it was barely a flutter. The wind has died down tonight, so we’re hoping it will continue to die for tomorrow’s long walk.

Adventure

Missing persons

We misplaced two of our party when they took the high road and we took the low road, but we met up again when, showered and fresh, they greeted us at our accomodation. And that’s a tricky thing about modern hiking. There is an App that shows you the route. But also a guide book. And finally signs at the sides of the road. And as it’s not uncommon for a party of eight to walk separately (not always as a result of a marital dispute), not to mention tight bends, high hedgerows and a pee at the side of the road, it is possible to be separated. Many of us rely on wifi so if we’re in the field (sometimes literally) and the cows won’t communicate our direction and location, there’s no one else to do it.

Missing top hat

When Mr Darcy’s cap flew off in the gale, Jane bravely chased it down, anchoring it to the ground with one of her poles until it could be safely retrieved. Jane also very sensibly (to ward off the double threat of sunburn and windburn) wore not only the hood of her jacket today, but anchored her hat on the top of it, securing it firmly with a double knotted string. Lydia on the other hand, who wore sunglasses but no hat, now has the complexion of a strawberry tart

Finally …

Tomorrow is a very long hike, almost to the top of this mountain. On the way home from the pub, the peak was hidden by clouds which might tell you something …